©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Some of these tables snake around the castle, where you'll feel like you're eating all alone with the Mediterranean. Rick: This is your husband's grandparents. I'm joining my friend Monica on one of her visits to the cemetery perched high above her town. With the church overlooking its intimate main square, a couple of restaurants, and a handful of private rooms for rent, it has a relaxing vibe. Built with the same determined spirit that united Italy, this train line literally helped tie together the newborn country's diverse regions. ▲▲ Monterosso al Mare Resorty, flat, and spread out, with a charming old town, a modern new town, and the Cinque Terre's best beaches, swimming, and nightlife. Rick: Does this bench have her name on it? Series: Rick Steves' Europe European Travel Skills, Part III The last episode in this three-part mini-series distills Rick Steves' 30 years of travel experience into 30 minutes of practical advice on how to have a fun, affordable, and culturally broadening trip to Europe. Irene: Uh, yes! Crumpled hills come with topographical lines: a terraced, green bouquet of cactus, grapevines, and olive trees blanketing the surrounding hills. These days the castles, which used to protect the towns from marauding pirates, guard only glorious views. Focaccia originates here in the region of Liguria. While tourism has brought a new affluence here, even high-end places are still family run. Credit: Couresy of Rick Steves. see our FAQ. The dry-stone-masons of the Cinque Terre are famed for their skill at artfully building and preserving the trails and terraces. Then the basil is added. With the lure of the modern world it's not easy to keep these labor-intensive traditions alive. The result: dramatically situated cemeteries high in the hills. Riomaggiore, while bigger than the towns we've seen so far, is another cozy collection of homes nestled in a valley. One of the essential Cinque Terre experiences is to get out and hike. Miky's pasta is cooked with a unique twist — capped with pizza dough and finished in a wood-fired oven. And my son, Andy, is joining us for the region's most elegant dining experience. As the area's a national park, you'll pay a nominal admission fee, and enjoy better-maintained trails and a more pristine countryside. His years as America's most popular European guidebook author blends with his relaxed but informative style to make this one of public television's most popular series. When you come here, you must try pesto. Fresh garlic, sea salt, and toasted pine nuts get mashed into a fine paste first. Each rugged little town is a variation on the same theme: a well-whittled pastel jumble of homes filling its ravine. The Cinque Terre takes great pride in its white wine. The flower stand is a family affair. Rick Steves points out four worthwhile destinations, all within an hour from the ... Siena, the Italian Riviera, the Swiss Alps, Paris, and London, these episodes cover Rick's favorite 3,000-mile European loop while providing viewers with essential travel skills. And it's main square has some of the region's finest restaurants. Rick: And quanti litri qui? This gang rented a place with a homey living room and a small but fully equipped kitchen. With evocative photos and finely carved memorial reliefs, any are worth a visit. Giuseppe: Yes, yes. 0187-812-296). One tradition that thrives oblivious to all the tourism is that special time when people are out, socializing…enjoying the cool of the early evening. Then, after scirocco, we have a wind from Libya, called libeccio. Rick Steves Italy 2019 [Rick Steves] on . …and a restaurant. From each town stretches steep, terraced hills. Vernazza has recovered. But I've never seen happier, more laid-back tourists. 1/1. Minimize crowds and heat by hiking early or late. Rick produces a best-selling guidebook series, a public television series, and a public radio show, and organizes small-group tours that take over 30,000 travelers to Europe annually. Built without mortar, they require almost regular maintenance. Both books are packed with hand-picked recommendations and Rick's travel advice and tips for saving time, money, and hassle. Until next time…keep on travelin'. These hillsides have been terraced for centuries. If the weather's calm, hourly boats link the Cinque Terre towns. As the threat of pirates faded, the communities grew with economies based on fish, olives, and grapes. And if you manage to get invited in…you'll enjoy an education…and, of course, a taste. Ciao! Every one, want the people, have something like before. And, as photos inside attest, winter storms can engulf the entire tower in waves. For a sweet dessert wine, sip the local Sciacchetrà. Vino delle Cinque Terre. She rent room, for the first time, to American people. And each of the five villages actually retains a distinct dialect. With the steep hillsides serving as a giant funnel, the flash flood overwhelmed the tunnel containing the town's stream. Rick: Sposato. ▲ Portofino Yacht-harbor resort with grand scenery and easy connections (by boat, bus, or on foot) from Santa Margherita Ligure. Rick: In France! Thanks for joining us. You approach the Cinque Terre by train through long, dark tunnels. Normally, the seas will be too rough. Italy's Cinque Terre is an irresistible mix of nature, culture, and human activity — well-worn locals, sunburned travelers, and inviting family-friendly piazzas. No, it's great! From the beach resort half of Monterosso, a tunnel leads under the castle and into the old town. Until the coming of the train and tourism, these towns were very remote, and heavily dependent upon the sea. Back in Vernazza, I'm enjoying the passeggiata with Irene. The Cinque Terre is five little towns like this — beautifully isolated in the most seductive stretch of the Italian Riviera. Monica: And here I have my cousin, Sauro. The old castle no longer says "stay away." Monica: No, every week. While you can hike or ride the train between towns, you can also catch the boat. While nothing like past generations, small-scale fishermen still earn their living working their nets while the tourists play. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on the Italian Riviera. Italy bubbles with emotion, corruption, traffic jams, strikes, religious holidays and crowds. We start in Vernazza, where the big news is the hourly arrival of the train bringing an almost rhythmic surge of visitors into town. 1/1. Enjoying this stroll, it's easy to understand why so many artists and romantics are drawn to this region. And if you're married in Riomaggiore? Italian Riviera. Study the arrangement man and nature have carved out here over the last 15 centuries. Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. This was the town's watchtower back in pirate days, and a Nazi lookout in World War II. Rick: That's better. Here you'll find more restaurants, characteristic shops, and a world of colorful lanes. Rick: So, from Libya, libeccio. Terms of Service | Privacy, In Italy’s Cinque Terre, Views to Die For, The Enchanting Cinque Terre: Fiat-Free Italy, Pleasures of Italian Cuisine Karel: OK! The Cinque Terre, which means "five lands," was originally described in medieval times as "the five castles." Rentable private rooms — called camere — are the best values throughout the Cinque Terre. The tiny harbor, with its modern breakwater, does double duty — serving both fishermen and fun-seekers. Rick produces a best-selling guidebook series, a public television series, and a public radio show, and organizes small-group tours that take over 30,000 travelers to Europe annually. Waiter: Gnocchi con pesto. His mission: to empower Americans to have European trips that are fun, affordable, and culturally broadening. Irena: Ciao! Lake Orta ... We were not allowed to take pictures inside St. Mary's but there is a video clip on Rick Steves' YouTube channel that shows a beautiful look inside. Le Cinque Terre was Steves's recommended substitute for Portofino. All five villages are connected by scenic trails, much enjoyed by visitors. So when you hear somebody, you know what village they live in. From Vernazza, the trail leads dramatically along the coast, and through the vineyards. ... Castle Doria provides some great views in Vernazza; thanks to Rick Steves we learned that instead of paying the charge to go up to the top of the castle, we can grab dinner at the restaurant in the castle – Belforte. Rick: So, do you have relatives here in this wall? Rick covers it all in the new edition of this best-selling guidebook, from the must-see sights in Venice, Florence, and Rome, to the lesser-known destinations in the Italian Riviera and the Dolomites. His mission: to empower Americans to have European trips that are fun, affordable, and culturally broadening. Tonight, we're enjoying it on gnocchi. Monica: Exactly. The adjacent church bells chime through the day — but, thanks to an agreeable town priest, they're silent through the night. While most tourists are still in their rooms, villagers — some who've never set foot in a modern mall — do their shopping. Sara: Buon appetito! Like a breakwater keeps out the waves at the bottom of town, a gate stops traffic at the top. 2020-12 ... YouTube TV. The father, Miky, runs the kitchen with an impressive mix of artistry and precision. Like many towns built in a ravine, Vernazza paved over the stream that once divided the town in order to make this people-friendly main drag. Monica: Yes, here I have my grandparents. Whether strolling through shady olive groves, enjoying wide-open vistas, or pausing for a little sunbathing on your own private rock, the hike is a delight. You are happy because you are together with the people of your family, with your friends. In the south of Europe is Italy, and between Florence and Genoa lies the Cinque Terre. For those hiking the trails, an ideal snack is a slice of focaccia. This area is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is located on the Italian Riviera in the Liguria region of Italy. Rick: And people are coming every month, every year? Baker: Grazie! No cars enter this village of 600 residents…except early on Tuesdays, when trucks and vans roll in for the weekly tailgate-party street market. In "Rick Steves' Heart Of Italy," Rick delves deep into the Italian heartland — the place where la dolce vita is a way of life. When our pasta arrives and the crust is broken, the steamy aroma heralds a taste treat to come. While the Cinque Terre now endures the storms of the modern world, the region's charms are as endearing as its people are resilient. Rick: Very different. Unfortunately many others felt the same way when watching the Rick Steves episode, so this relatively unknown area has really grown with tourists in the last few years. Rick: It is nice. Giuseppe: Yes, but I think that the weather will be changed. Giuseppe: Because we have now a wind from Syria, called scirocco. To this day, many families still make a little wine in their cellar. Hot out of the oven, the focaccia comes in several varieties, and is a local favorite for a quick snack to go. But those who appreciate the heritage of their land seem determined to keep things going. Rick: 54 liters — that's a lot. Giuseppe: In Cinque Terre, if you know the wind, you don't need the weatherman. In Vernazza, the action's at the harbor, where you'll find a kids' beach, plenty of sunning rocks, and a wealth of cafés and restaurants. But those “five lands” aren’t the only game on the Italian Riviera. Meanwhile, the mother and daughter help wait tables and charm their guests. And each day, restaurateurs count on these men to keep their diners smacking their lips. Andy: Looks delicious! For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Sara is bringing us the house specialties, and making sure we know what we're eating. On our Rick Steves Best of Europe in 21 Days tour, the meat of the itinerary is the middle week when we visit Venice, Florence, and Rome in rapid succession. There's one main path, so you won't get lost. But the weatherman was no help when a freak rainstorm hit the region in October 2011. See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks. In fact, in the mainstream tourism world, it’s almost quaint that Rick Steves readers are so fixated on the Cinque Terre. No, vino della Corniglia. In cemeteries like these, some are buried in a graveyard, while most are in niches called loculi. Rick: Within one week. The city was buried in an angry torrent of mud 10 feet deep. And they found Sauro in France. We hopped on the tram with our all-day ticket and headed to the Scrovegni Chapel and we were surprised by the beautiful garden park area to wander as well as the beautiful chapel. Rick Steves shares his extensive knowledge of European history, art and culture. Once our tour of the chapel was done, we were joined by our local guide Carla. Made famous by world traveler Rick Steves, Cinque Terre ("Five Lands") are five beautiful Italian Rivera hillside villages. Of the five towns, Vernazza has the closest thing to a natural harbor. Irate ranters shake their fists at each other one minute and walk arm-in-arm the next. Since 1973, Rick Steves has spent about four months a year exploring Europe. Mammoth waves can slam into this wall. Postcards from Europe by Rick Steves Rather than being a formal guidebook listing where to eat, what to do, where to stay etc, this is a refreshing at times entertaining collection of experiential stories and people that Rick has met during his travels in Europe. The sanctuary is quietly busy with locals remembering lost loved ones. Rick: When you come to the cemetery, it's like visiting your family. If you want the kind of beach scene that leaps to mind when you hear the word "Riviera," you'll find it here. Since 1973, Rick Steves has spent about four months a year exploring Europe. In the densest parts of town, these lanes became interior passages. This is the most resorty town of the group. The most typical main course here: fish. Sure, it's touristy, and virtually every storefront caters to visitors' needs. Expert advice from Rick Steves on what's worth your time and money; Itineraries for one to four days in the top destinations in England, France, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, and Switzerland; Rick's tips for beating the crowds, skipping lines, and avoiding tourist traps Instead, it seems to welcome people-packed excursion boats. They brag that while big-time Riviera resorts nearby sold out, the Cinque Terre is still locally owned. Download for offline reading, highlight, bookmark or take notes while you read Rick Steves Italy 2020. Giuseppe: …in Cinque Terre, you don't need a weatherman! While every street-level business in town was destroyed, the townsfolk have rebuilt, and are careful to keep their expanded drainage system ready for the next episode of violent weather. Rick: Grazie! With cars, larger hotels, rentable umbrellas, and the best beach around. Rick: Look at that, with his rolling suitcase. I enjoyed revisiting the chapel by watching the video clip on the Rick Steves' Europe YouTube channel when we returned home. For simple fare and a special evening, reserve one of the dozen romantic cliff-side sea-view tables for two. There's one main street — it runs from its train station down to the sea. Rick: Ah, Licari! Miky's has a fine wine list with many available by the glass if you ask. Milk-run trains tie the villages to each other and to the outside world. The tangle of pastel houses lean on each other as if someone stole their crutches. La Spezia Beachless transportation hub, with trains and boats to the Cinque Terre and buses and boats to Porto Venere. Just sun, sea, sand — well, pebbles — and people. And Lina is waiting in the main road for someone arrive. The flood came and took him away. And to cap a great meal, chef Miky drops by as we're enjoying our traditional Sciacchetrà and biscotti. Historically, each family has its own small vineyard. Monica: Yes, my family, my friends. Travel with Rick on this video guide to the Cinque Terre including Vernazza, Monterosso, and more. Rick: Oh. Vernazza's castle, which is now a grassy park with great views (and nothing but stones), still guards the town. A community that I've been visiting since all of us were a lot younger. If you've always hated anchovies (the harsh, cured-in-salt American kind), try them here, fresh — and cooked in a variety of ways. If I were ever to require a dessert, it would be their mixed sampler plate, dolce misto, which offers enough for two (closed Tue, reservations wise in summer, diners tend to dress up a bit — but it's not required). There's Manarola…and Corniglia — safely on its hilltop — and from my boat I can almost see our apartment in Vernazza. Manarola is petite and picturesque — a tumble of buildings filling its ravine above a craggy port. A tower has stood guard here for a thousand years. It's served with biscotti…ideal for dunking. Even today, traditions survive. Rick: Yeah, why? Your 60 minute Cinque Terre Virtual Villages Walk begins high on a cliff walkway directly south of the small village of Riomaggiore, the first of the five villages that define the Cinque Terre. Giuseppe: Una bellissima giornata. If you keep climbing, eventually you'll pop out up at the top, near the castle — handy for fleeing attacks. It was carved out of these mountains just after the unification of Italy, back in the 1870s. Inside Rick Steves Italy 2019 you'll find: Comprehensive coverage for planning a multi-week trip to ItalyRick's strategic advice on how to get the most out of your time and money In the Cinque Terre, everyone enjoys great views — and that includes the dead. But this submarine-strength door hints that the weather's not always so calm. The people of these towns are proud of their heritage. Someone — perhaps after drinking a bit too much of the local wine — calculated that the Cinque Terre has over 4,000 miles of dry-stone walls. And the son, Eros, florist by day and opera singer by night, sells flowers with a dramatic flair. And the people of the Cinque Terre know the weather by the wind. Explore the Italian Riviera! I'm Rick Steves. It’s bella chaos, Today, the big employer is tourism. The pesto is finished with freshly grated Parmesan cheese. ▲▲ Porto Venere Enchanting seafront village perfect for a scenic day trip (by boat or bus). Warm water, colorful umbrellas, plenty of bodies soaking up that Mediterranean sun, and an inviting promenade. Beppe: Every village have a different dialect. Fishing for anchovies, sipping wine out of rustic barrels, and savoring twinkling Mediterranean vistas, we enjoy the ultimate Riviera adventure. Find out what to do on your next trip. Bad news. Each has a distinct personality — gently and steadily carving a good life out of the difficult terrain. They cook the concoction in a wood-fired oven to keep in the aroma, then flambé it at your table. Rick: I'm goin' where the water tastes like wine! The Italian Riviera — the lowbrow, underappreciated alternative to the French Riviera — has a breezy beauty all its own. see our FAQ. Savor the view and the unforgettable setting. Since Roman times, Corniglia has been noted for its wine-making. Rick: What's an example? Ciao Maria! Italian Riviera. Giuseppe: Yes. Trails can be congested. This time we're rebuilding medieval terraces, here on the most beautiful stretch of the Mediterranean coastline: Italy's Cinque Terre. (11:50), Landing at Malpensa airport from JFK and wishing to take a train into Lauterbrunnen. Last stop for this boat, the numero cinque of our Cinque Terre tour, is Monterosso al Mare. Then we hike to Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore before catching the boat to Monterosso al Mare. Levanto Town popular with surfers and families for its long beach; has speedy trains to the Cinque Terre. After a hike, it's fun to survey what you've explored. 2020-12 ... YouTube TV. Giuseppe: You know the wind in Cinque Terre, you don't need a weatherman!…Sorry! Rick: That's perfect! Rick Steves points out four worthwhile destinations, all within an hour from the ... Siena, the Italian Riviera, the Swiss Alps, Paris, and London, these episodes cover Rick's favorite 3,000-mile European loop while providing viewers with essential travel skills. For me, this is Italy at its most relaxed. Explosions of Mediterranean brightness hint at the wonders to come. But nearby towns to the north (Levanto, Sestri Levante, Santa Margherita Ligure, and Portofino) have more beaches; towns to the south offer a mix of marble (Carrara), train connections (La Spezia), and yachts (Porto Venere). A stroll here — especially with a local friend who knows everyone in town — gives a good insight into this close-knit Italian community. Monica: Exactly. 1/1. The Cinque Terre is a collection of 5 colourful villages built in the Cliffside in the Italian Riviera. Click first photo in each group to enlarge entire gallery. Complimenting Monterosso's happy beach scene is Restaurant Miky. Hit Europe's can't-miss art, sights, and bites with Rick Steves Best of Europe!. From here you can scout the rest of your trek, and see your next stop: Manarola. Baker: Bye! All their pasta is "pizza pasta" — cooked normally but finished in a bowl that's encased in a thin pizza crust. From the Mediterranean to the Alps, from fine art to fine pasta: with Rick Steves on your side, Italy can be yours! And then it's poured over the pasta. The mobile market serves a different town each day. Traditional farming techniques are complemented with modern know-how, as the delicate vines are prepped in anticipation of a hot growing season. We'll see all five towns — starting in Vernazza. Miky is packed with well-dressed locals who know their seafood and want to eat it in a classy environment. The pesto is a local sauce; it's come from Liguria, the region where we are now. ▲▲ Santa Margherita Ligure Easygoing old-school resort town with an enjoyable urban bustle, a handful of sights, and close proximity to Portofino. Beppe: Yes, sure. Gradually the chef works it all into a rich green sauce. It's the easiest stretch of the hike, and a good place from which to savor your own private piece of Mediterranean coastline. Sure, there are plenty of ups and downs…but with these views, it's well worth it. Click first photo in each group to enlarge entire gallery. From the beaches to the Alps, from fine art to fine pasta, Italy has it all. There is so much more to Liguria beyond just the Cinque Terre. After that, we are ready for our treasured “vacation from our vacation” on the Italian Riviera. Here is an American boy. From the Mediterranean to the Alps, from fine art to fine pasta: with Rick Steves on your side, Italy can be yours! The shorter Rick Steves Best of Italy guidebook focuses on Italy's top destinations and sights, is in full color, and is updated every other year. Using our Rick Steves Italy guidebook, we took a side trip by train to Padua. For elegantly presented, top-quality food, with subtle flavors that celebrate local ingredients and traditions, this is my Cinque Terre favorite. Armando. Monica: Lina is the first bed and breakfast in Vernazza. At the windy end of town is a belvedere — a breathtaking lookout perched high above the sea. They died, both, in one week. Beppe: Accompagnato. It has a personality. Rick Steves made his fortune and started a travel religion around the gimmick of entering Italy "though the back door", revealing to people that the "undiscovered" town down the road in Italy was just as lovely -- and usually cheaper -- than the internationally famous destination. Visitors climb to the top for the view and to imagine past raids. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Rick: Scirocco. Each town is honeycombed with a range of rooms, apartments, and small hotels. Rick: So if you know the wind…
This couple chose a perch right above the piazza. Tiny communities like this grew up in the protective shadows of their castles — their people ready to run for refuge at the first hint of a Turkish pirate raid. Rick: Bellissima giornata. And, normally, we have after libeccio, the wind from the north, called tramontana. Sure the place is now well-discovered. Exploring Italy's most remote and romantic stretch of Riviera, we visit five tiny port towns: dramatic Vernazza, surrounded by vineyards; reclusive Corniglia, high on its bluff; pastel Manarola; hardscrabble Riomaggiore; and the pint-sized resort of Monterosso. My Way Tour- where will our tour stay while in It Riviera. For a home base, choose among the five villages. Rick Steves Italy 2019 by Rick Steves - Books - Hachette Australia Your cart Video: Watch Italy's Riviera: Cinque Terre, an episode of the Rick Steves' Europe TV show. The village of Corniglia, perched on a ridge, sparkles in the distance. 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